Categories: surfing, Travel
Author
Coach Dris
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Categories: surfing, Travel

Author

Coach Dris

Share

Last week, as Hurricane Erin sent energy toward the North Atlantic, the charts lit up: long-period swell over 15 seconds and waves in the 2–2.5 m range. For me, it arrived like perfect timing. I needed ocean time after a busy summer building the surf house, polishing processes, talking to investors, and grinding through long, focused days. I’d been training, teaching my son to surf, and playing with kettlebells—but I felt snappy and tired. Nature was calling.

Into the wild

I packed the car, bolted on a custom roof bar for the rooftop tent, grabbed the last bits of gear, and hit the road with my buddy Amine. We aimed for a raw, off-road spot—wild coastline, no frills, the nearest village a 20–30 minute drive away. We reached the headland at sunset. The sea was still gathering itself. We cooked outside, slept early, and let the stars do their work.

First light, first lines

Morning brought lines. Long, steep, powerful. I finally got to test my new hypto krypto haydenshapes board in real waves. Only five or six surfers out. Smiles all around. I scored long rides, one after another. Face sore from grinning. We broke for food and a nap, then the word spread. As Erin’s swell filled in, locals poured into the lineup.

When the crowd arrives

This is where many traveling surfers stumble. They sit on the shoulder and get frustrated. Or they paddle out defensive, even a bit arrogant. Tension builds. Fewer waves. Worse vibes.

I’ve learned something simple that always helps: greet people.

So I did. I paddled through the pack saying hello, smiling, offering a quick handshake when it made sense. A genuine “How are you?” in the water can flip the whole session. And it did. People smiled back. A couple of locals paddled over to greet me too. The mood softened. Sets opened. I kept catching waves, sharing a few, and felt welcomed rather than tolerated.

Amine skipped the session—it looked too big and crowded for his taste—and that was fine. For me, the attitude shift made the difference. Mindset matters as much as skill.

The attitude that gets you waves (and good energy)

  • Greet first. A smile and a “salam/bonjour/hi” go a long way.

  • Be curious, not cocky. Ask how it’s been breaking. Listen.

  • Read the room. Sit where you’re not in the way. Watch a set cycle.

  • Give one, get one. Yield a wave early. People notice—and repay.

  • Cheer good surfing. Compliments create flow.

  • Say thanks. Gratitude keeps doors open.

  • Leave no trace. Respect the place that’s giving you joy.

Food, sleep, repeat

That night we ate well—Amine cooks like a pro. Dawn came with a gift: just two of us in the water, trading clean lines in silence. No rush. No noise. Only the sound of water running under the rail. Sessions like that refill the tank.

What I took home

I’m grateful to live in a coastline with this much potential. Grateful for friends, for empty dawns, and for crowded evenings that still work when you bring the right attitude. Travel far, yes. Chase swells, yes. But greet the lineup—and the ocean will often greet you back.

Travel notes for this kind of mission

  • Access: some Moroccan gems are off-road. Go prepared.

  • Timing: long-period swells can pulse. Be there for the early and late windows.

  • Gear: roof-rack or rooftop tent, headlamp, basic camp kit, spare water.

  • Respect: greet locals, don’t crowd the takeoff, and leave no trace.

  • Safety: know your limits; long-period = power. Have a buddy on land or in water.

Book your week

If you want a base to chase swells and settle into Morocco’s rhythm, La Crique Surf House is set up for it: friendly crew, daily surf checks, and flexible coaching for improving surfers. Come for waves, stay for the pace of life.

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Grateful for this coastline. Grateful for the people who share it well. And grateful for a simple rule that keeps paying off: greet the lineup, and the ocean often greets you back.